This is the flathead/file combo and what i can only assume is a Roberson on the other handle. Like, they go out a bit, then just turn, so they're not in line with the tool body. you remember how I said that this tool basically had NO tool retention, open or closed? That's the ONLY reason I can think they did this. Next up is the combo flathead driver/file. The opener is too far buried in the fat handle to hook onto the rim of a can. On the same side of the tool as the scissors is also a can opener. This, coupled with their dangerous propensity to stick up out of the handle (because while being terrible scissors, they're still able to stab your palm with their blade tips) almost singlehandedly ruin this tool. Almost as bad as any cheap swiss army knife knockoff for right-handed use. That makes these the worst scissors I've ever tested on any multitool for left-handed use. Barely Adequate: Khaki, Cardboard, Paper, PETE. Left Handed: Failed: Corrugated Cardboard, Heavy Plastic, T-Shirt, Suede, 550. Barely Adequate: T-Shirt, Khaki, Suede Leather, Cardboard, 550. Right Handed: Failed: Corrugated Cardboard, Heavy Plastic. Based on the rating system I've devised in the scissor test thread here. This seems like a pretty major safety hazard.Īnd speaking of the scissors. The retention, both open and closed on ALL tools is so light that the scissors just push themselves out of the tool body when the pliers are open. see in the above picture, how the scissors are sticking out? I didn't pull them out for the pic. The regular plier portion of the plier head is disproportionately small, and the wire cutting surface is disproportionately large, Also, because of the thickness of the tool, and the central placement of the plier assembly, getting the plier head close to a flush bolt would be impossible The tool cut 12-gauge copper wire with reasonable force, and cut coathanger, but required extreme force to accomplish this. The plier jaw itself is fairly precise in it's needle nose. This might make it somewhat more durable than those held together with screws. However, the backstop piece seems to have a single steel pin running across the entire tool, through steel scales. Plier assembly is attached to the tool in the same fashion as is seen on all 'Suspension' clone types. Due to the thick plastic scales, gripping the pliers is reasonably comfortable. Flex through the handles is very noticable. Retention of the plier head in the open position is weak. The pliers are sprung, and close with very moderate force. It's just over 4" (103mm) long, 1.875" (48mm) wide at its widest, and 1" (25mm) thick.Īll tools are accessed by first opening the plier assembly. The tool, by itself weighs just a hair over 9 oz (256g). The tool is made of steel, with plastic scales, and rubber grip inserts on the scales. The firesteel, while a little stubby, threw good hot sparks once the black exterior coating was scraped away. I can get much better sound from a pen cap or spent. Here's the beam compared to a fresh fauxton (fauxton on bottom). The beam has a very slightly bluish tint. The flashlight/whistle and firesteel that comes with it are both straight-up from the 'Les Stroud Mountain Ultimate Survival Knife'. The velcro tab holding the flap shut is not very large, and I suspect would wear out pretty quickly. Stitching on the sheath seems pretty good, and tool retention is moderate. The entire pack weighs 10.8oz (307g), 5" (127mm) long, 2.75" (70mm) wide, and about 2" (50mm) thick at it's thickest. Along with the tool, you get a small combo flashlight/whistle, and firesteel. The tool comes in a decent soft nylon case. In case you want the short, up-front version.
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